Statuesque. Beverly Johnson with Saints Mark and Matthew, Brasilia, Brazil, Vogue 1973.
(Kourken Pakchanian/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Statuesque. Beverly Johnson with Saints Mark and Matthew, Brasilia, Brazil, Vogue 1973.
(Kourken Pakchanian/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Stella McCartney on Technology, Legendary Stores, Influencer Kris Wu, Menocore, Sarah's List...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator October 19, 2017
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
T-shirts are the great common denominator. Everyone wears them, all social classes, all over the world. I prefer my T-shirts a certain way, but I always enjoy seeing the way others wear their own T-shirts. I pay attention to the people that walk by me everywhere I go.
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

“In the beginning, we were just dudes in an office full of spiders trying to make silk.” So says BOLT THREADS CEO DAN WIDMAIER on the beginnings of a bioengineered thread utilized recently by STELLA MCCARTNEY. McCartney's label has long been one of the most progressive fashion labels when it comes to sustainability. And a cosign from a prestigious fashion label can help startups like Bolt gain traction. Will other premiere fashion labels use their businesses to drive sustainable innovation? If it fits the current paradigm of luxury, and the customer pays for it, the answer is yes. As a group, KERING has been making moves to secure longterm resources as they shrink or are threatened by near-term environmental issues. No world, no future business. McCartney says it's been a long road to having the rest of the industry see it this way. There's momentum... I love when stores offer a visceral experience and the chance to see something new. That's hard to come by when seemingly no piece of merch has gone uncatalogued by the internet, photographed six ways with 360-degree views and video, but every so often there's surprise. My fav store walk-ins from recent memory include the OFF-WHITE pop-up in NYC, which plays to the aural side of experience. On entry, one is greeted with towering foliage and the sound of chirping birds, like walking into another dimension off the grit-and-grime streets of SOHO. The other is EGG LONDON, where the shop's white-washed walls house a stunning variety of under-the-radar picks from Egg's own label, ALBUM DI FAMIGLIA, ARTS & SCIENCE, DOSA, and more. It's quality over quantity, with a fireplace upstairs and the windows thrown open to the street. Oh, and never underestimate the power of lighting. This video of KLAUS NOMI at FIORUCCI is one of the most memorable store videos I've seen, recording how retail can become a hub for community and culture—and of course, sales. It's easy to think of legendary shops—catering to all manner of punks, mods, and dandies—as a thing of the subcultural past, but seeing lineups around KITH MANHATTAN has me thinking differently. Many of fashion's legendary boutiques are long gone, but there's a new crop of stores looking to define their own legacies. FashionSET: Fashion's Most Celebrated Stores: Style and Merch. What did I miss? What are your favorites?... Briefs: more vintage MARGIELA in the latest archive sale from ARBITRAGE NYC and GRAILED... Great photos in SUSIE BUBBLE's coverage of #SARAHSLIST, a showcase of independent designers shepherded by SARAH MOWER at LIBERTY LONDON... HANESBRANDS acquires ALTERNATIVE APPAREL.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

October 19, 2017