
(Justin de Villeneuve/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
(Justin de Villeneuve/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Some standout shows from LONDON FASHION WEEK have been about women—their inner lives, their domestic spaces, their regal appearances, even their imagined social lives—lives that might make impossible leaps through centuries or social milieus. ERDEM brought in research from QUEEN ELIZABETH's wardrobe at WINDSOR CASTLE, and then imagined those clothes mixed with jazz performances at the COTTON CLUB in HARLEM of the 1950s. That blending of universes, of social circles once worlds apart, has been a persistent theme for fashion over the past few years. When done well, it taps the moment of internet telepresence and instant imagery. CHRISTOPHER KANE took inspiration from private, domestic spaces—as a realm of surfaces scrubbed clean and a psychological state that invites subversion. Prim and proper mixed with kink. The collection looked to scouring pads, loop mops, laundry bags, turning them into knits and lace. With Kane, technical feats and craft are central to the collections' look, so I'm looking forward to seeing video. Some great details are posted on the brand's website. Enjoyed EMILIA WICKSTEAD's latest, too... Shaky department store business has designers looking to expand their own retail channels. I can remember a time when department stores differentiated themselves. Now it's all soup. Owing to their size and apparent desire to serve everyone, the overlap in inventory and designers makes them feel like one giant database. This is not the moment for enterprise solutions, conventional design, or programmatic social media. So projects like NEIMAN MARCUS's LUXE LAB are smart. Could be stronger if the online version included a design element. This follows NORDSTROM's (also smart) move in launching SPACE by OLIVIA KIM. And I've been continually impressed watching new arrivals stream in to 24SÈVRES. Department stores are making moves. Is it enough? Add to the list of designers who have recently opened brick-and-mortar locations: HUISHAN ZHANG is opening in LONDON... Almost missed WHOOPI GOLDBERG's NYFW reviews for INTERVIEW. Great to read personal, immediate reactions to the clothes. No baggage here, just a chance to enjoy. Here's Goldberg on VAQUERA... Bidding for BALLY... You've been shop-dropped... SUPREME gets the (no) logo treatment.