SHAYNE OLIVER is back. Truthfully he hasn't been away so long. One year to the day, if memory serves. The collection he showed as a guest designer at HELMUT LANG was split by expectations and desire: the expectations that come with invoking Lang's work, and the desire to bring back the cultural force that was HOOD BY AIR. Outside the biz dev context, this first Helmut Lang collection had all the raw, visceral energy that Hood by Air shows had when the label was running. HBA always felt like it was channeling something unique to its creators, and I'm not sure how the shift in context benefits Shayne's work except that it gives it another platform to be shown. A chance to continue on. Except it's just this season. So where does that leave Helmut Lang? Stay tuned. Fans of Oliver won't bother with the difference. HBA shows always brought delight. Lang the label, the re-edition, the resurrection, is an experiment playing out. Happily, reviews of the show offer a variety of perspectives—they eclipsed coverage of most other shows. Enjoyed TIM BLANKS' review (paywalled, available to BOF pro subscribers). See the others below... CLAUDIA LI had a great presentation. The concept for the show was childlike dreams, a state hovering between the real and unreal. The billowing jackets and gathered sleeves suggested clouds, and the collection felt light, as if being viewed in the upper reaches of some thin atmosphere. This kimono-inspired shirt and shorts, made of crisp poplin and a soft denim bandeau wrapping the body, shows the designer's eye for proportion. The colors, prints of pale yellow tulips and pink goatsbeard, deep blue-green and red, were drawn from AKIRA KUROSAWA's film "Dreams." Extra points for the serene but surreal set, which placed models inside floating, translucent white boxes that looked like doorways... Some looks at CALVIN LUO were promising... Props... Windbreaker wars 2K17... Adventures with DIPLO, front row.