Models in Marc Jacobs' fall 2017 collection.
(Presley Ann/Patrick McMullan/Getty Images)
Models in Marc Jacobs' fall 2017 collection.
(Presley Ann/Patrick McMullan/Getty Images)
Marc Jacobs Confronts Appropriation, State of the Plus Size Union, Intellectual Property 101, Teen Shoppers...
Nicola Fumo, guest curator August 8, 2017
quote of the day
There seems to be this strange feeling that you can be whoever you want as long as it's 'yours,' which seems very counter to the idea of cross-pollination, acceptance, and equality.
rant n' rave

Watching this concert vid of HALSEY and CHARLI XCX (who is wearing the coolest pearlescent satin carpenter pants—sounds like a lot but trust me) cover "Wannabe" by the SPICE GIRLS at LOLLAPALOOZA had me feeling grateful for the "girl power" messaging the Spice Girls spouted to me and all the other eight year olds growing up in 1996. We're in another big "girl power" moment, acknowledging gender inequality across culture and hearing from a larger variety of femme-identifying people than ever before. Props to the all-woman brand team running the global NIKE account at digital agency THE PROGRAM, crafting a global content strategy around new product for the renowned athletic label. One day, we won't have to be surprised and delighted by an all-woman team doing anything 'cause it'll be the norm... That's the future GIRL CULT is looking to create. "Think COACHELLA for women, or LILITH FAIR for Gen Z," says PRINCE CHENOA, founder of digital teen mag GALORE, which is behind the event. My interest is piqued... THE CUT makes the case for "plus-size" (hate that term) model ASHLEY GRAHAM as a legit supermodel (I didn't realize we still needed the point clarified). Where KENDALL and GIGI offer followers as currency, Graham's "selling point [is] her attainable sense of self-worth," writes JADA YUAN. I wish one of the Spice Girls had been a double-digit clothing size; that would have been impactful as an elementary school girl (a chubby one, at that!). I'm glad this new generation of girls will see bodies like Graham's and be able to experience live music in an environment like Girl Cult and be professionally developed working under female leaders, like the team at The Program... Can MARC JACOBS reverse cultural appropriation critiques by working directly with said culture? A short (and refreshingly honest) profile on the designer in the September issue of INSTYLE is accompanied by a fashion spread lensed by HYPE WILLIAMS and featuring a coterie of hip-hop greats—KURTIS BLOW, BIZ MARKIE, SALT N PEPA, LL COOL J—dressed in Jacobs' fall collection: an "exposition on hip-hop style," writes ERIC WILSON. The photos look awesome, the clothes are cool, but it does feel like a little apology tour following the outrage that came with his spring 2017 runway show. (ICYMI: Mostly white models were done up in faux dreadlocks, "[failing] to credit anyone Black or anything associated with Black culture as inspiration," noted JULEE WILSON for ESSENCE. The designer then wrote in a heated INSTAGRAM comment debate, "Funny how you don't criticize women of color for straightening their hair." Cue more outrage.) I don't think Jacobs is a bad dude, I think he was like, 'Hey, I like the looks of this,' as he has for decades of designing; as have many. The outrage that came—and Jacobs admitting "I feel out of touch with what today really looks like"—is good. It's good that marginalized groups are being heard. It's good that we're having these confrontations because they lead to conversations, and that's the road to understanding each other. Fashion has needed a representation wakeup for a long time... FASHIONISTA is putting together its annual fashion school ranking and looking for input from current fashion school students and alumni. Weigh in here—it's quick!

Nicola Fumo, guest curator

August 8, 2017