HELMUT LANG is a label I think everyone would love to see return to its glory days. The challenge? Helmut has been off the scene for a while now, and it's his vision that made the label great. Legacy is tricky. The latest vision for Helmut Lang looks well-executed at first glimpse, but I worry that people mistake stylistic imitation for homage in their mission to revive fashion labels. It wasn't just the logo, the minimal graphics and stark runways that made Lang important, but the spirit and attitude the designer brought to his collections. How does that translate to 2017? Lang wasn't interested in the system. So: Are branded campaigns, calculated INSTAGRAM reveals, and press releases the answer for this label?... The MICHAEL KORS deal to buy JIMMY CHOO for $1.2b is a bid for growth. The idea that Choo might bring some of the luxe sheen back to Kors leaves me a bit puzzled tbh. In my view the two brands have a lot of parity—large, commercial, built for mass luxury. And the Kors brand has been feeling the consequences of fashion pushing the mass sensibility too far. Kors CEO JOHN D. IDOL says the Jimmy Choo deal will not be the last acquisition. I find that an interesting proposition—that Kors could bring scrappier, more imaginative labels under its wing. Yet the company needs to prove it's an attractive umbrella for said companies... Briefs: OFF-WHITE x WARBY PARKER is out... ARMANI is streamlining its brands... A DIOR documentary aired on French network TV5 MONDE. Any further release planned?... I've always been more interested in fashion's capacity for cultural expression and individuality than news, and if you are too, you'll love these. Going nude for the first time with the NATURIST SOCIETY, and what media means for sapeurs.