Cult label VEXED GENERATION is returning for A/W 2018, and I'm all for it. The label was built on the convictions of designers JOE HUNTER and ADAM THORPE, and together the two designed clothes meant to confront systems of power during a period of rapid technological change. Sound familiar? Timely, to say the least. Based on their interview in DAZED, the designers still have a radical streak. Yet as we know in fashion, when the past comes back, it takes on new forms, new meanings. Will be interesting to see the direction they take after having worked on the label pre-social media, pre-IPHONE. Per their (resurrected) website, it's time... There's another sign that NEW YORK FASHION WEEK is indeed becoming more consumer-facing. IMG announced a VIP program to connect brands with "high-end consumers" next season. If the week is going to cater to tourism and social marketing, then it should fully head in that direction and become an entertainment business—and actually make sure it entertains. Bring DOGE or something. Kidding of course (no animals were harmed in the making of this newsletter). If not, it could benefit from becoming more useful to the industry it serves. But don't take it from me. The ailments have been diagnosed at length—thoughtfully and because people care. Now let's move forward... What's been happening on the ground at NYFW: MEN'S? I'm going to shift into "glass half full" mode here. A label that's piqued my interest is MATIERE, which made its runway debut at NYFW:M. The collection is a strong mix of technical details and well-balanced proportions, with the zip-and-swish feeling of #techwear. Loved the subtly reflective fabrics and how they were layered in a color palette of ice-toned blues, pale greys, and cool ivory. Designer SCOT SHANDALOVE has an eye. Clean and confident. Look forward to seeing more from the label. Others to watch: BODE and RAUN LAROSE... Briefs: HYPEBEAST MAGAZINE issue 18 is intriguing... SHOPIFY adds an EBAY channel... MANOLO BLAHNIK's documentary looks like a treat... And about magazines—these scans of i-D's 1987 COMIC ISSUE are fantastic.