A model walks Kenzo S/S 2018 wearing an ancient pattern. Paris Fashion Week Men's, June 25, 2017.
(Kay-Paris Fernandes/Getty Images)
A model walks Kenzo S/S 2018 wearing an ancient pattern. Paris Fashion Week Men's, June 25, 2017.
(Kay-Paris Fernandes/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Test Collections and Insta Debuts, OAMC, Haider Ackermann at Berluti, GQ's Gay Legacy, T-Kimono...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator June 26, 2017
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
I consider runway shows modern rituals where people come together to collectively celebrate beauty. It's just a human instinct that has found different arenas throughout history. The clothes I sell are relics of this ceremony.
Rick Owens, 2015
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

How long will the banner of "streetwear" remain distinctive? From what I've witnessed around cities in the USA, there's no doubt that t-shirts, hoodies, windbreakers, mock-neck zip-up pullovers, sneakers, and their ilk are a dominant form of dressing for many people. If the runways of PARIS FASHION WEEK MEN'S are any indication, streetwear has become a template. And it could be that this "street" isn't the storied cultural ferment of hip-hop, skateboarding, or general teenage malaise, but just—the street. Sidewalks and cement, the foot pounding the pavement. In suburbia, in cities, in rural towns and mid-sized hamlets the world over. So indistinguishable it's hard to see. So indistinct it's desirable. A streetwise fashion history student would take up the cause and track the movement—the adoption of the windbreaker, the bomber jacket, the sneaker (and by this I don't mean a listicle or a "brief history of"—do they assign those in schools nowadays?). I respect what LUKE MEIER is designing for OAMC, combining references to street culture with techniques and materials from traditional European craft. It's an evolution of something one may reactively want to call streetwear, but as Meier said himself, "streetwear" is a loaded term right now. Meier spent eight years at SUPREME, so he knows the landscape from the innermost sanctum of skate/street fandom. OAMC was launched in 2013. Watch this space. FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: OAMC's Luke Meier... More PARIS FASHION WEEK MEN's for you: HAIDER ACKERMANN at BERLUTI is brilliant. DRIES VAN NOTEN proves that sometimes, simplicity and a finely honed sense of color—which is just electromagnetic radiation traveling through the light spectrum, after all—is best. COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS went inside-out and disco. VETEMENTS S/S 2018 went deep-diving into its roughly 4-year-old archives, back to the wee years of 2015, when the DHL t-shirt was so young, so new. Sampler times, my friends, sampler times (haha)... OLIVIER THEYSKENS is slated for an exhibition at MOMU ANTWERP... A kimono-style jacket crafted from wool suiting fabric: T-KIMONO... Right now I only have use for one phone. So unhip, I know. However, this shiny new thing has me seriously considering a second mobile, just so I can tell friends to "call the flip phone"... Stock accuracy should be, ahem, accurate.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

June 26, 2017