With recent headlines about FTC warnings to influencers and the pay-to-play looks at the MET GALA, tensions between culture and commerce continue. ALEKS EROR argues that buying and selling of mass-produced goods means that streetwear is not a subculture. True enough, fan communities are often the least critical of being marketed and sold to, and in the case of streetwear, they often have their own profits to turn by buying and selling in secondary markets. Whether or not that's culture is up for debate... Authenticity and artifice have been at issue in fashion for centuries. But the latest round of critique might accurately reflect a broader condition in which the boundlessness of advertising leaves people feeling bombarded and suspicious. Enter ad creep. MARK BARTHOLOMEW makes a compelling case for regulation. The next step is to ask "what next?" If advertising is failing, who is accountable? Are all ads bad, or is it poor execution? There's a huge opportunity for inventiveness here, from both a regulatory and commercial standpoint... RAG & BONE CEO MARCUS WAINWRIGHT says he wants to dispense with the rules of fashion marketing and commissioned a short film to spread awareness about the label. PROENZA SCHOULER installed a kind of in-store book club to connect customers with the designers' inspiration... The proposed rezoning of NYC's GARMENT DISTRICT is a complicated issue—there are as many people invested in the status quo as there are people who benefit from moving operations to BROOKLYN. There's a cultural aspect as well: the Garment District is part of NYC heritage and has been popularized through media. Does that offer additional motivation to save it? The options, which have amounted to "stay" or "go," don't leave much room for compromise—yet. Stay tuned... Cheers to i-D for looking at SEOUL street style from a cultural perspective... From COACH to conglomerate.