
(Patrick Demarchelier/Conde Nast/Contour Style/Getty Images)
(Patrick Demarchelier/Conde Nast/Contour Style/Getty Images)
Weaving. Lots of stories focused on craft and design today. This piece in JING DAILY looks at luxury partnerships with CHINA's homegrown design talent. I'm always interested to see which of the country's designers are focused on craft that draws specifically from China's cultural legacy. Labels like MS MIN and SHANG XIA both do—though the inspirations are subtle. These signals to China's culture may pass unknown to casual observers, far from the "put a rooster on it" we've observed from other labels (regrets). Shang Xia was founded as a collaboration between designer JIANG QIONG’ER and HERMÈS. Both labels are stocked at LANE CRAWFORD, and I monitor the retailer a) because I'm a fan and b) to see which Chinese designers its buyers have picked up. Ms Min has had a couple of seasons at SAKS. There are no North American outlets for Shang Xia thus far (the store nearest to the US is in PARIS). Another Chinese designer focused on technique and craft is RENLI SIU, born in FUJIAN and now based in LONDON. Check out this interview with the designer in i-D. And for an entirely different view on craft, this piece from STANFORD researchers LAUREL BOSSEN and HILL GATES looks at historical connections between labor-intensive handwork and the long misunderstood practice of footbinding in China... OLIVIER SAILLARD presented a performance staged as a fashion show, where four onetime models walked the runway, wrapping swaths of sample fabric around their bodies in actively changing styles and configurations. Saillard said he's discussed restaging YOHJI YAMAMOTO's 1998 "Wedding" runway show with the designer. Yes, please... RAF SIMONS' latest collection for Danish textile company KVADRAT is out. Love how it looks on ISAMU NOGUCHI's cloud sofa. Simons spoke to MADELEINE LUCKEL about the collection and discussed the differences between working in the design and fashion industries. DOROTHY COSONAS, creative director of KNOLL textiles, has collaborated with PROENZA SCHOULER, RODARTE, and MARIA CORNEJO, among others. There's a long history of textile manufacturers collaborating with artists and fashion designers, and it puzzles me when design museums seem to have a blind spot for fashion. Arguably, this is changing, with museums like MAD and COOPER-HEWITT incorporating fashion into recent exhibitions... Don't miss SURFACE's trip to the BOTTEGA VENETA workshops. The intrecciato work looks amazing... JON CARAMANICA shops as the "man who loathed pajamas."