Undercover by Jun Takahashi, Autumn/Winter 2017/18, Paris Fashion Week, March 3, 2017.
(Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images)
Undercover by Jun Takahashi, Autumn/Winter 2017/18, Paris Fashion Week, March 3, 2017.
(Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Undercover, Comme Des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Future of the Silhouette, Art and Commerce, Failing Upwards...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator March 6, 2017
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
When you want to deliver quickly, somebody has to take risks. With the normal fashion system, you show the collection, then you have the stores coming by, they place the orders, then you order fabrics and you produce. You have input from different buyers. With this direct delivery system, it's going to be one person who has to decide...This is not going to be the creative person.
Dries Van Noten, 2017
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

The latest COMME DES GARÇONS collection began with an idea: "the future of the silhouette." The silhouette, or cut and fit of clothing, is recognizable all around us—the baggy jeans, yoga pants, and soft-shouldered blazers of today were the knee-breeches, panniers, and corsets of yesteryear. A single baseline for conceiving clothing has always been: we've got two arms, two legs, and we walk upright. RICHARD MARTIN saw a conceptual divide between cultures in wrapping the body, as with a kimono or sari, and the cut-and-sew segmentation of tailoring in EUROPE and the US. I love when, as with Kawakubo's latest collection, creative endeavors prove the frailty of our assumptions. The CDG collection had models cocooned, molded, protruded—they looked more as if they'd been grown than modeled. For other adventures in silhouette: how about MIT's OPEN STYLE LAB, which develops clothing for people living with disabilities? How about something as ubiquitous as the sports bra, which was conceived when LISA LINDAHL's husband jokingly pulled a jock strap around his chest? We have 3D modeled-clothing for characters in WORLD OF WARCRAFT, emoji stylized clothing, and companies using software to make clothing for people's quote-unquote "real" bodies. The future of the silhouette indeed... Do people care that REI KAWAKUBO is the "second living designer" to have a show at THE MET? As if—heavens, universe, and all deities forbidding (Kawakubo will never die so don't even think about it)—Kawakubo were to pass before May 4, we'd suddenly be okay with it? Of course not, and it was outmoded to see controversy when VREELAND showed YSL too... So much good coming out of PARIS it can't be contained. UNDERCOVER. JUNYA WATANABECÉLINE. YOHJI YAMAMOTO. HAIDER ACKERMANN. Looks to me like DEMNA GVASALIA is becoming more adept with the legacy of BALENCIAGA. Look 41 is a fair synthesis of Demna's exaggerated silhouettes and the unremitting dedication to craft left behind by CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA. The other couture looks, made in honor of the house's 100th anniversary, appeared as if they'd taken renowned Balenciaga silhouettes and pushed the "inflate" button. I've got a lot of respect for Demna's conceptual turn—for instance: Balenciaga Excel Website. He's of a generation that sits at the divide between pre- and post-internet, and he gets it—now I'm waiting for the clothes to catch up... If you miss Fashion Bros (admit it—we all do), check out the latest episode of the erstwhile hosts’ podcast: FAILING UPWARDS.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

March 6, 2017