Kristen McMenemy gives a NYPD officer a smooch during fashion week, mid 1990s, NYC.
(Catherine McGann/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Kristen McMenemy gives a NYPD officer a smooch during fashion week, mid 1990s, NYC.
(Catherine McGann/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Thom Browne, NYFW Goes Calm and Quiet, Narciso Rodriguez, Fashion LAN Party, Yeezy Season 5...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator February 16, 2017
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
If you put something on and it doesn't look good, the fashion police aren't going to come and take you away. And if they do, you might have some fun in jail.
Iris Apfel, 2012
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

NYFW day 6 had people thinking about a quieter existence. At THOM BROWNE, the mood was calm, but it barely contained a simmering delirium. We looked out onto the set: a frozen pond just touched with haze, surrounded by bent reeds frozen in wool and bare branches that reached up toward the ceiling lights. It was an AMERICAN GOTHIC kind of calm—an uprightedness tinged with twisted fervor. A penguin motif ran throughout the collection in appliquéd pattern repeats and an optical black-and-white patent leather coat. There was astrakhan and sheared mink made to look like the striped trim on varsity jackets. A house on the hill with a white picket fence ran gleefully over two pieces of a skirt suit. Whole panels of a coat were stripped and replaced with sheer tulle so you couldn't tell if you were looking in, out, or through it. The collection took familiar codes and—through craft—made them unexpected. The clothes were marvelous. Houndstooth was rendered in sequins. Argyle was blown up and patched in astrakhan. Buttons dangled like paillettes. The soundtrack played through 4 acts with 4 moods, from ambient, to discoteqhue, to MARILYN MANSON, and finally to a golden-era HOLLYWOOD orchestral score. I detected some winking humor each time the tune changed. The last look was a bride-like figure wearing (what else?) a tuxedo puffer replete with a train, carried by a willing partner, also wearing a version of the tux-puffer. The delirium. It was thoroughly Thom Browne. It's the shot in the arm NYFW needs. Thank you to TB and co., and thanks HANNAH... More noteworthy shows: NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, GABRIELA HEARST, DELPOZO. Don't sleep on Narciso. His clothes are beautiful... YEEZY SEASON 5. Read VÉRONIQUE HYLAND's review... Don't miss MADE's backstage views from NYFW... Best fashion week after-party goes to MAKI OH. The OXOSI FUJI AMBASSADORS and their dancers were amazing... Classic sneaker styles, classic phone styles, and now what? The NOKIA 3310 might be back for those who want to text like it's the year 2000. No scrolling here. Speaking of ways to reinvigorate fashion, what if smaller, local area networks brought a more intimate setting to the digital fervor of fashion week? NINTENDO is bringing back the LAN party, so why not?... Love BEAMS. This book takes us back through 40 years of the TOKYO-based retailer. They've partnered with DICKIES, DISNEY, Nokia, and L.L. BEAN to name a few... Shoutout to MARY WANG for her piece on how young designers manage to afford showing at fashion week... It happened. CANADA GOOSE IPO.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

February 16, 2017