LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S has been a look at fashion’s intersections. London after BREXIT. Men after gender-divides. Streetwear when “the street” is online. What’s surfaced in London are odes to tribes, street, athleticwear, flags, banners, unity and disorder. Athleticwear for the office, and suits for (online) subcultures. What’s clear from menswear for fall ’17 is that streetwear is ubiquitous and traditional menswear—think suiting, tweed, and polished oxfords—has pulled back into a niche. The subcultural has beome mainstream, and the preferred menswear uniform of the twentieth century is now subcultural. Don’t miss CRAIG GREEN, J.W. ANDERSON, COTTWEILER, and XIMON LEE, plus these three new names in streetwear… I appreciate the slightly niche sensibility that comes with isolated men’s fashion weeks. Would love to see them combined with main fashion weeks in one grand spectacle. Never been one for practicality… Stateside, it’s no surprise that suburbia and mall culture are coming back into fashion, given the decades-long opening of mainstream American culture to global designers, who've taken hip hop and trainers as their aspirational symbols. Hoodies became heroic. The latest US presidential election has laid bare the culture of rural and suburban America. One place it hasn’t been lost is in graduate student work. I’ve seen quite a few MFA photography projects with an interest in an aesthetic of the places that media forgot. Speaking of which, FASHION EAST showcased ART SCHOOL… The next collection from KANYE WEST, true kid of the CHICAGO suburbs (and I love it), is rumored to be inspired by CALABASAS… The full force of fashion’s imagination is on view in some very different visions of cyberpunk, from CHANEL’s S/S 2017 ad campaign and this editorial from POLYESTER ZINE. See also: THE FACE circa 1996. Now if we could only see more of this on the red carpet. Full on JNCOs… GOLDEN GLOBES red carpet lewks… Have to thank ELIZABETH SUZANN for her honesty in opening up her business model, and a further thank you to RACKED for covering it… Check out this article on rediscovering Chinese herbs, from NY MAG’s KATHLEEN HOU.