
(Shilo Byrd)
(Shilo Byrd)
For VANITY FAIR, JOHN ORTVED cracked the lid on REED KRAKOFF's eponymous label -- KRAKOFF's tenure as Creative Director of COACH, his label's unique genesis, its awkward, uncertain closure, and the man behind it all. ORTVED gets some candid observations from external observers like the NEW YORK TIMES' VANESSA FRIEDMAN, former colleagues like ex-COACH president JERRY STRITZKE, and sources close enough to KRAKOFF that they preferred to remain anonymous. What emerges is a portrait of a man who was deeply committed to creating beautiful things but wasn't able to develop the business infrastructure to support his ambitions. Either an ICARUS who flew too close to the sun on wings of $300 per yard FRENCH fabric or a delusional, selfish aesthete, depending on who you ask. As with most things, probably some truth to both. A cautionary tale on the importance of knowing your strengths, your weaknesses, and when and how to find help. One thing I'll say, though: if a woman had been given $120-$150 million of COACH's money to run with and flamed out as quickly as KRAKOFF's label did, I'm not sure you'd hear anyone suggesting that the problem was she had "too much good taste" as ELLE editor ANNE SLOWEY does here... GUCCI will collapse their men's and women's shows into one big, kitschy extravaganza. Makes sense, since they've been trotting out gender-fluid casts since the beginning of the ALESSANDRO MICHELE era... Few brands doing retail design as well as AESOP. I swear I can hear this place softly whispering, "Spend money in me," from across the PACIFIC... MONCLER goes high-tech to combat counterfeiting... VETEMENTS for DHL is so last-week-of-MARCH -- this is the must-have tee for first-week-of-APRIL. Anyone taking bets on which fashion label will be first to be implicated in the PANAMA PAPERS?