
(Jean-Antoine Watteau)
(Jean-Antoine Watteau)
Greetings from VANCOUVER -- feel free to direct any must-sees/dos/eats/shops to my inbox... Pleased to see KATIE HILLIER and LUELLA BARTLEY back in action. First looks from their eponymous line suggest they've taken the playful, recombinative magic they brought to MARC BY MARC JACOBS and pushed it further into the realm of luxury. Which is cool because the clothes look great, and sucks because fewer people will get to enjoy them... THE FADER's ALEX FRANK wonders why everyone's wearing super-long sleeves, and I suspect the answer is sorta boring -- because they think it looks cool. Why a designer would make clothing with super-long sleeves is a little more interesting. Designing clothes that are deliberately, exaggeratedly impractical is a statement on convention -- you're essentially making clothing about clothing. You're questioning beauty ideals (see: COMME DES GARÇONS), you're examining forms through abstraction (see: MARGIELA). And you're acting out a bit -- in a world laser-focused on productivity, willful impracticality is a small act of defiance. Or, maybe you just think super-long sleeves look cool... Bless EMILY OBERG and the COMPLEX crew for braving the SUPREME line-up, which seems like something DANTE would have written about... WALLPAPER*'s favorite venues from the men's spring 2016 shows...