Balmain
Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing.
(Balmain)
Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing.
(Balmain)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Buying Balmain, Christopher Kane Wades Into E-Commerce, Nicola Formichetti Speaks, Linjer Breaks Through...
Adam Wray, curator June 23, 2016
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
Good fashion is evolution, not revolution.
Pierre Balmain
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

At BUSINESS OF FASHION, LIMEI HOANG considers whether BALMAIN was worth the price QATARI firm MAYHOOLA just paid for it -- approximately €500 million, 14 times the brand's EBITDA. Evidently MAYHOOLA sees untapped growth potential, and they may well be right. The label has a ton of buzz thanks to designer OLIVIER ROUSTEING and his famous friends, and there are categories ripe for expansion -- according to WWD, only 4 percent of its revenues come from accessories, and CEO EMMANUEL DIEMOZ is promising more flagship boutiques in major cities. Whether or not they can establish a robust accessories business in short order remains to be seen -- easier said than done. I'm inclined to give MAYHOOLA the benefit of the doubt, though. Their 2012 VALENTINO acquisition -- for roughly €700 million, or 31.5x the label's 2011 EBITDA! -- is looking mighty savvy as its sales recently eclipsed $1 billion... VANESSA FRIEDMAN takes a look at the deal from a design perspective, wondering if a need to appeal more broadly will force ROUSTEING to offer more subdued, approachable looks... Dive deeper into the sale and the history of BALMAIN in the latest REDEF FashionSET: "Buying BALMAIN"... ALESSANDRO MICHELE is leaving money on the table if he doesn't do a GUCCIFER 2.0 hoodie or handbag... MEADHAM KIRCHOFF was a force of unbridled creativity in the LONDON fashion scene until the label was forced to shutter last year due to financial pressures. OLIVIA SINGER explains why you should help them preserve their archives... Sometime in the hours after the CLEVELAND CAVALIERS won the NBA championship on SUNDAY night, shooting guard J.R. SMITH took his shirt off and has yet to replace it. As Clevelander PETE BEATTY puts it, "These magical three days of J.R. Smith will prove to be the JFK's hatless inauguration of shirts. In ten years no one will wear shirts." I had no idea that JFK was credited with cratering the AMERICAN hat industry, though it seems he was unfairly scapegoated. Point is: J.R. for President... According to NDP GROUP's MATT POWELL, who is basically a sneaker biz oracle, PUMA's in the midst of a major resurgence thanks to RIHANNA's endorsement... Correction: credited a great FINANCIAL TIMES story on the resurgence of the tracksuit to CHARLIE PORTER -- it is actually by RYAN THOMPSON. Sorry, RYAN!

Adam Wray, curator

June 23, 2016