YEEZY season's come and gone, and once you cut through all the commotion, you'll find raw but promising work. The show's casting was spot-on, as it was last year, diverse and nodel-heavy. Models were introduced in color-blocked groups, directed by sergeants barking out marching orders. The concept was flimsy and revealed nothing about the clothing beyond its military origins -- we got it, thank you -- but it set a relaxed, languid pace that gave you a chance to really examine what KANYE was offering, which was essentially an update of his last collection. The voluminous crewnecks and hoodies, body stockings, chunky jump boots, and cocoon-like army jackets all returned. This was a leaner batch than his last -- a more limited palette, nothing as eye-catching as that tattered knitwear -- but at its core, it's a refinement of the last season's martial expressionism. I invoke expressionism here because his proportions strike me as exaggerated for emotional effect rather than as a formal exercise, like, say, VETEMENTS'. It's the same impulse that guides one of his chief inspirations, HAIDER ACKERMANN, whose influence remains present in YE's work -- I noted a kimono-esque piece resembling a HAIDER joint that KANYE's been wearing lately. If there's anything interesting about KANYE's work to date, it's that instinct... Not impressed with MAXWELL OSBORNE and DAO-YI CHOW's first collection for DKNY. I have no idea who's going to wear these clothes, or for what occasion. The impulse to rework the pinstripe blazer is promising, but they pushed it too far into abstraction. It's possible to be both original and versatile -- which DKNY needs to be -- but they haven't found that balance with this collection... Tuck your shirt in, I guess...