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Jason Isbell returns to the Ryman: 'The greatest place on Earth'

Dave Paulson
The Tennessean

It seems like we had to wait longer than ever this year, but it’s finally autumn in Nashville.

All the signs are there: The leaves have turned, we're no longer dealing with a daily high of 90 degrees, and Jason Isbell has a week of sold-out shows at the Ryman Auditorium.

Yes, for the third October in a row, the acclaimed singer-songwriter and his band, The 400 Unit, have a residency at Music City’s most revered venue.

In fact, this is their longest one yet: seven shows in nine days. Odds are pretty good they'll be right back on that stage 12 months from now, too.

And in spite of all that, Jason Isbell at the Ryman — some two dozen performances in — feels anything but routine.

For one thing, there’s a unique setlist each night. Fans who arrive early to the Ryman can snatch up a small souvenir print laying on the pews. On the back side is form where you can fill out the songs played and circle the show number, much like you'd mark up a baseball scorecard.

But more importantly, it all continues to feel fresh simply because Isbell and his band continue to care. 

“Happy to be here at the greatest place on Earth," he told the crowd Saturday night before launching into the first song, "24 Frames."

It was a wholly believable statement, the first of dozens he'd make — mostly through song — over the next two hours.

Jason Isbell performs with his band Jason Isbell and the 400 Unit at Ryman Auditorium Friday, Oct. 18, 2019 in Nashville, Tenn.

There's of course the line that gets the loudest response at every Isbell show, from "Cover Me Up":

"But I sobered up and I swore off that stuff, forever this time."

Isbell hasn't had a drop in seven years, and that neatly aligns with his rise from cult favorite to acclaimed troubadour. Still, he's continued to cultivate a discerning audience: one that will pump their fists through Southern stompers like "Super 8," but also holler as Isbell challenges privilege on "White Man's World."

"Thank you for listening," he said after finishing the song.

"World" was on Isbell and The 400 Unit's last album, 2017's "The Nashville Sound." He's released a new album every two years since going solo in 2007 — until now. At the Ryman, he's been sharing a new, Fleetwood Mac-esque rocker titled "Overseas." 

While that was the only new song in the batch on Saturday, there were other hints at where that next album might head. Guitar solos were cranked up Saturday night, and Isbell and company wore their classic rock influences proudly in the encore. It started with a pitch-perfect cover of Crosby, Stills and Nash's "Helplessly Hoping," and culminated with a guitar battle between Isbell and Sadler Vaden on "Never Gonna Change," by his former band Drive By Truckers.

Jason Isbell and the 400 Unit perform at Ryman Auditorium Friday, Oct. 18, 2019 in Nashville, Tenn.

He's been revisiting his past work quite a bit lately, after approving new remixed versions of his second and third albums from 2009 and 2011. Isbell told the crowd to check those new versions out, in any way they'd like, whether it was buying copies or streaming for free.

"I'm not in charge of what people pay for and what people don't pay for," he said. "So what I'm not gonna do is ask a bunch of folks who have medical bills, and kids, and diapers and milk and food to buy, and every once in a while a chance to go out on a Saturday night and get a show, I'm not gonna ask you to pay for s---. If you want the record, just get it however you want to get it, and listen to it. And I hope you enjoy it."

More than a little credit for continued freshness of Isbell's Ryman run goes to his opening acts. Every year, he and his team pick an inspired opener for each show. 

On Saturday, it was Mississippi talent Shardé Thomas taking the Ryman stage for the first time.

Jason Isbell plays guitar with his wife, Amanda Shires, at the Ryman Auditorium on Oct. 18, 2019.

It was perhaps also the first time for the tradition of fife and drum blues, of which Thomas’ late grandfather, Othar Turner, was a renowned practitioner.

“This is his fife,” Thomas said, holding up her bamboo instrument. “So he’s here with us tonight.”

By the end of this run, Isbell will have chalked up 27 sold-out Ryman shows since 2014.

His residency continues October 20, 22, 23, 25 and 26 at the Ryman Auditorium. All shows are sold out.