Ahead of Brexit, British fashion promotes itself in China and welcomes Chinese talent to UK
- China has become an important part of the British Fashion Council’s strategy, and it is hoping British brands can capitalise on evolving Chinese tastes
- This month the council will host its first series of events at Shanghai Fashion Week, with brands including Jamie Wei Huang and Jenny Packham
With Brexit still up in the air, the British fashion industry – which is estimated to contribute £32 billion (US$42 billion) to the UK economy – stands to lose.
It could be saved, however, by one of the luxury market’s most powerful consumer groups.
“China is becoming a very important part of our strategy,” says Stephanie Phair, chair of the British Fashion Council (BFC), when we meet during London Fashion Week in February. “There is a huge love of fashion from the Chinese consumer and as their tastes evolve, they will start to want a different type of fashion, not just mega brands. This is where British brands come in.”
She explains that it also ultimately comes down to economics. “The Chinese market accounts for 30 or 40 per cent of the luxury market globally. If we are to do business with [the Chinese] we need to understand how to speak to that audience.”
A recent survey conducted by the UK’s Royal Mail postal service revealed that 55 per cent of Chinese online shoppers bought British brands, proving that there is a strong appetite for British fashion.
Since 2011, the BFC has focused on strengthening its ties with China by hosting a series of initiatives, including London Show Rooms events in Hong Kong and Shanghai. Last year it launched the China Partnerships Strategy in Shanghai, with David Beckham named the scheme’s ambassadorial president.
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This week, with the support of the UK’s Department for International Trade, the BFC is hosting its first series of events at Shanghai Fashion Week. high-profile names Roksanda and Peter Pilotto will launch a stand-alone showroom within the Chinese fashion trade show Ontimeshow. Meanwhile London-based designers Xiao Li, Feng Chen Wang and Gayeon Lee will also present collections as part of fashion week, and catwalk shows will be hosted by British-based design businesses including Jamie Wei Huang, Minki and Xu Zhi, with Jenny Packham officially closing Shanghai Fashion Week.
“We want to open channels and opportunities for British designers in China, through trade missions, partnerships with retailers and connections with investors, all with the hopes of creating more awareness,” Phair says.
“And it’s not just one-sided. Fundamentally we have two roles or responsibilities – focusing on British fashion but also building London as a fashion capital. So many of our best designers are Chinese. Many study at our schools and grow their businesses here and become part of our community.”
Thanks to schools such as Central Saint Martins, London has become a hotspot for Chinese talent looking to become fashion designers. The recent London Fashion Week schedule included a growing list of Chinese names, many of whom were born and raised in Britain, while others have chosen to launch their brands from the capital.
Over the years the city has nurtured established names such as Huishan Zhang, who cut his teeth at Christian Dior, and up-and-coming talents such as British-educated Edeline Lee and A Sai Ta, who is known for mixing streetwear and references to Chinese culture.
London is such an open market for any designer, whether they are ‘British’ or not
The BFC has already launched several initiatives with support from Chinese e-commerce giant JD.com, such as the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and the BFC/GQ Menswear Designer Fund. Earlier this year the council formalised its relationship with the Chinese company with a three-year strategic partnership for London Fashion Week and London Fashion Week Men. The partnership will see British and international brands introduced to the Chinese consumer market, while increasing the visibility of Chinese brands within the global fashion landscape through collaborations with internationally renowned designers.
“London is such an open market for any designer, whether they are ‘British’ or not,” Phair says. “A ‘British’ designer today is no longer just someone born and raised here. We hope to champion this along with the mayor’s campaign #londonisopen. London is so rich in culture and art and this is due to its diversity of people. This partnership [with JD.com] not only promotes a cultural exchange but gives support to all designers. Raising brand awareness takes time no matter what your culture.”
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While China is a large part of the BFC’s strategy this year, Phair also says that issues such as sustainability, or what the council has coined “Positive Fashion”, are high on the agenda.
“It’s an umbrella term which we coined in 2013 but it has really gained momentum,” Phair says. “It’s not just about sustainability but also diversity and quality. The BFC is about designer businesses which elevate the industry to think more about quality and how to be mindful. We have a responsibility to talk about it.”
As for the potential fallout from Brexit, she is trying to remain positive.
“I think it’s best to take an optimistic view – ultimately people will do what’s best for them economically, but what’s undeniable is the damage done by the uncertainty. Now is the time to put opinion aside and focus on the key needs of the industry such as tariffs, IP registration and free movement of people. Almost 70 per cent of the UK’s 13,000 manufactory roles are held by European nationals. We need to address this.”
