The “Made in Italy” symbol is much more than a merchandise mark. Italian products are revered the world over for design, style, workmanship and structural integrity. These characteristics are inherent in Italian gold jewelry. This was on full display during the Vicenzaoro jewelry trade fair held in Vicenza in January.
One of the things Italian jewelry companies do so well is produce jewels of high quality and myriad designs on a large scale, combining hand-made craftsmanship with innovative technological advances. That’s probably why 60% of the visitors (which is starting to approach 100,000 during the six-day show) are from other countries. It’s also why at a time where large jewelry trade fairs are struggling this event is growing.
When examining jewelry design in Italy, much of it has to do with the unique and unusual shapes that are created whether by hand, machinery or a combination of both. Below are several of the best examples of these shape-shifting designs at work.
Annamaria Cammilli creates her subtle gold jewelry shapes through a combination of proprietary processes that produce unique gold colors, ranging from the softness of “Sunrise Yellow,” “Apricot Orange” and “Champagne Pink” to the confident and intriguing “Lava Black” and the sophisticated “Ice White” and “Natural Beige.” In addition, the Florentine company has become equally recognizable for its soft-texture matte finishes through a manufacturing process that turns the gold into a silk-like appearance and feel. Serie Uno (Series One), is a new collection that adheres to many of these characteristics. Based on designs of the 1970s, it uses rounded rectangular shapes that are layered. Its name is derived from the use of a single diamond for each jewel, which serves as the focal point of the shape. While available in all gold colors, the company suggests that this collection is strongest in the softer hues of Sunrise Yellow and Pink Champagne.
The contemporary, urbane style of Antonini is on display with its newest collection that celebrates the 100th anniversary of this family company based in Milan. Titled “Cento,” the collection not only references 100 years but it also takes its inspiration from a city in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy of the same name with an historic center that resembles that of nearby Bologna. The collection by creative director Sergio Antonini features high polished yellow and white gold in wave shapes with some of the pieces sprinkled in pavé diamond. Space plays into the overall shape as the center of each piece is left open in similar wave-like patterns. The pieces showcase the malleability of gold in design.
What do you make for the people who have everything and vacation on the island of Capri? In the case of local designer and retailer, Chantecler, you give them fun jewels that reflect the bright vibrant colors of the famed vacation spot. Gold jewels featuring colorful coral, turquoise, pearls, enamels and other materials from sea and land combine for jewels that fit right in with the casual, chic island lifestyle. Shapes play a vibrant role in the designs as smooth rounded surfaces dominate the various collections. For example, the Chérie collection uses onyx, red or white coral and turquoise combine in long gold necklaces, chokers and rings and perfect spheres. Unlike most of their collections, these pieces are uniform in color and shape. Pavé diamond accent most of the jewels. The company also has boutiques in Milan and Tokyo so you can live the island lifestyle while in the city.
Often overlooked in Italian gold jewelry design is the role technical innovation plays. A company that epitomizes this is Fope. Nearly all of the company’s gold products is based on one invention: Flex’it, a patented system Fope founded a few decades ago that makes its mesh chain flexible because of tiny gold springs hidden between each link. It is used for flexible bracelets and expandable rings, while necklets and earrings are crafted the traditional way. Among its newest pieces for 2019 are additions to its Love Nest collection, characterised by a signature tubolar mesh chain that applies the Flex’it system.
Any gold manufacturing center will also have companies that focus on silver. One of those companies is Pianegonda, which specializes in big, bold shapes for its sterling silver jewels. The shapes are based on contemporary architecture and the geometrical shapes of nature that can be either sharp and angular, or soft. Often times a singular shape is repeated but repositioned to create depth within the uniform structure.
