Like many Korean-American women, I got schooled early on the basics of skincare. While cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting against sun’s damaging rays have been a straightforward process, treating my individual concerns proved trickier. Because, unlike most of my friends, hyperpigmentation plagued me. While my skin bronzed quickly in daylight, it also, when traumatized – whether it be a simple scratch or flood of stress-induced hormones – developed uneven, unsightly dark spots and patches that to this day, affect my confidence.
Mind you: I never wanted to lighten my skin. (The proliferation of “whitening” products that continue to flood the Asian skincare market nod to a far uglier, darker reality about beauty, race, and class. But that’s another story.) I just wanted clean, considered products to address my pigment.
That’s when Avya Skincare enters the picture. Launched earlier this year and co-founded by Deepika Vyas and cosmetic surgeon Dr. Tanuj Nakra, the streamlined 5-piece collection features a proprietary blend of three natural ingredients (turmeric, neem, and peony) to target melanin – Nakra explains, “it’s a specialized pigment produced by our skin to prevent DNA damage from the sun’s UV light – and help even out complexions in women of color (like myself). But above else, Vyas and Nakra say that Avya is "unconditional luxury skincare for all.”
Below, they open up about the timing of their launch, why melanin matters in skincare, and the one Avya product everyone should stock in their bathroom vanity.
Why did you decide to launch Avya now?
Vyas: This year felt right because we observed a huge shift happening in the receptiveness of consumers and retailers in the luxury beauty market. Today, there is more openness towards a multicultural-oriented brand. In addition, women around the world are not afraid to voice their feelings to effect social change, and we felt AVYA’s message of living unconditionally through skincare would reverberate with consumers the same way. When I see and hear of our products changing people’s lives through healthier, brighter skin, and feeling beautiful and empowered, it confirms the need for brands like AVYA now.
What’s the role of melanin in our skin?
Nakra: Our human biology responds dynamically to sun exposure. The skin cells arrange the melanin granules just above the cell nucleus, protecting our vital DNA just like a sun shade. Lighter skin has lighter melanin, and so it is more susceptible to cumulative DNA damage – which can lead to skin cancer. The darker melanin in dark skin tones is protective against DNA damage, but darker skin is more susceptible to cosmetic pigmentation irregularities. These cosmetic, melanin-related problems are a major target of AVYA, which contains numerous melanin-control ingredients, including our custom-created AVYA Qusome™ of ancient botanicals: turmeric, neem, and peony. This trio of active botanicals is encapsulated in proprietary microscopic cocoons called Qusomes that protect and provide deep dermal penetration.
Why is it important to have skincare that addresses melanin?
Nakra: Dewy, even skin tone is prized by women of all cultures. Unfortunately, genetics, hormones, sun exposure, and other environmental factors can cause melanin disequilibrium – leading to uneven skin tone and patchy pigmentation. Melanin-focused skincare like AVYA features ingredients that control the melanin pathway to produce even-toned, radiant skin. We use antioxidant-rich turmeric, antibacterial neem, and anti-inflammatory peony flower to target the melanin pathway and create overall brighter, healthier skin. The secret to effective melanin control is developing a comprehensive formula that can address multiple aspects of the melanin pathway— that’s why we the AVYA Qusome™ works and is the foundation of every AVYA product.
What kind of person is typically affected by melanin?
Nakra: We all have an equal amount of melanin, but differ in the darkness of the melanin. Historically, in cooler, less-sunny climates, lighter skin allows more UV light through, allowing the skin to produce essential Vitamin D. In sunny climates, where Vitamin D deficiency is not a worry, darker skin prevents DNA damage. The melanin pathway in each of us is affected by our genetics and the environment, potentially leading to patchy, uneven complexion.
What do you consider as Avya’s "heroine" product?
Nakra: The Avya Anti-Aging Power Serum. It’s packed with carefully sourced active ingredients, and features pure encapsulated Vitamin C and our custom blend of turmeric, neem, and peony. Anti-aging molecules, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and N-acetyl Glucosamine restore skin texture, brighten discoloration, and increase intracellular hydration. Glutathione and yeast extract control and brighten pigment. Salicylic acid controls acne. Vitamin A (retinoid) smoothes fine lines and promotes skin cell turnover. Vitamin E provides antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing benefits.
