Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2018, Paris, Jan. 22, 2018.
(Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2018, Paris, Jan. 22, 2018.
(Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
FASHIONREDEF PICKS
Haute Couture Week, Richemont Bids for YNAP Control, Fate of Céline, Bass Pro Shop Chic...
HK Mindy Meissen, curator January 23, 2018
QUOTABLES!
quote of the day
I dress for the image. Not for myself, not for the public, not for fashion, not for men. If I dressed for myself, I wouldn't bother at all. Clothes bore me. I'd wear jeans. I adore jeans. I get them in a public store — men's, of course; I can't wear women's trousers.
Marlene Dietrich, 1960
fashion
rant n' rave
rantnrave://

I believe in luxury e-commerce, even if it hasn't experienced the renaissance that's been heralded repeatedly since the early days of the internet. Today it's experiencing a bit of a quandary: it's better established, yet feels less dynamic, with many companies relying on enterprise solutions or trying to port their vision into generic systems. There's a long way to go. RICHEMONT offered 2.8 billion EUROS for YOOX-NET-A-PORTER, and if approved by shareholders, the deal will bring Richemont's roughly 49 percent stake in YNAP up to full control. Multi-brand e-commerce will always have the competitive advantage bringing customers a more diverse offering—a point of view and a more dynamic sense of what's available each season. Thus far, I haven't seen many luxury labels differentiating themselves from experiences found at e-tailers like NET-A-PORTER or MODA OPERANDI. There's still a lot of CMS-junk loading and clunkiness in e-commerce. Why? Execution, details, timing, and agility are crucial in the current environment, without giving in to every internet whim. Shareholders in the these companies would love for luxury e-tail to become a winner-takes-all game, but it won't work out that way. Smaller, independent retailers with an eclectic, idiosyncratic point-of-view improve the entire ecosystem and can serve as a catalyst for young, innovative designers. There's still a lot of potential for the space if companies don't fall into lockstep. 24SÈVRES remains one of the better efforts in e-commerce, and a cursory look at CÉLINE's new e-commerce storefront looks decent (watch for the animated product snapshots). There's still an opportunity to take the best aspects of the top e-commerce stores and put them into one store, but no one has figured that out yet... The haute couture shows in PARIS have begun, and the first triple-A couture house to show was CHRISTIAN DIOR. I'm rooting for MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI even as I sometimes wish all the consideration and details in her collections could be pulled together into a more unified vision. Sidenote: the masks framing the models' eyes were stunning... Briefs: If you're in search of some '90s nostalgia, here's some airport style and "it" bags of the past... HIGHSNOBIETY raises $8.5 million... The MUJI hotel opens in SHENZHEN.

HK Mindy Meissen, curator

January 23, 2018