MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK begins today, and the first show on the calendar is ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. I've enjoyed watching Zegna under artistic director ALESSANDRO SARTORI, who returned to the company from BERLUTI in February 2016. Zegna seems to have renewed energy, with a focus on the 21st-century Zegna customer while staying true to its identity as a company known for tailoring and fine fabric for over a century. Traditional suiting has survived—some are more enthusiastic about it than ever—but as a uniform required for business or formality, it's pulled back into a niche. I like Zegna right now for its approach, from pushing more flexible production to working on innovative textiles. It's vertically-integrated from "farm to finish," and the focus on bringing in-house specialties to changing dress codes shows. Take the Spring 2018 show, with blazers that weighed less than 200 grams and a printed cashmere coat in one of the label's signature fabrics. No less beautiful, no less focus on heritage and materials. In short, no less luxury for the smartphone era. Or at least, that's what customers must hope. There's a telling moment from CHARLIE PORTER's interview (FT paywall) with Sartori, where the designer pulls out his IPHONE to show an old loom repurposed to weave leather for a new line. I can't think of a better picture of fashion today: streaming video of an old loom via smartphone... Per WWD, PRADA is moving its men's show to a company warehouse near its headquarters. I'm intrigued by the "Prada Invites" project, which, per the company, shifts focus to the "industrial side" of the brand's identity. Prada asked four architects and designers to reimagine its heritage material: nylon. Fascinating project given that the brand's nylon slings and backpacks have been coming back as vintage pieces. Prada is another powerhouse Italian label to watch as it continues to expand online efforts and move with 21st-century customers... In brief: Talking watches with AZIZ ANSARI... KERING spins off PUMA... Bygone beauty hacks... Wearables at CES... FashionREDEF is off for MARTIN LUTHER KING DAY and will return Tuesday.